All materials have their advantages and disadvantages. One is water-repellent, another stretches, a third doesn’t wrinkle… The material determines how the garment fits. Choose materials that feel comfortable on your skin and that suit your needs. Personally, I often prefer garments made of viscose and elastane. They drape nicely, stretch, and feel cool on the skin.
I have gathered the most common materials and will provide a brief overview of their positive and negative characteristics, along with some information about their origins.
NATURAL MATERIALS
Appreciated natural materials come from nature, form animals or plants. They breathe well, are durable, and feel comfortable on the skin. They have the ability to regulate temperature, providing warmth in colder conditions and a cool sensation in warmer weather. The price of natural materials varies based on availability. A common characteristic of all natural materials is that they are biodegradable!
WOOL – a material that easily can be reused
There are many different types of wool – sheep’s wool, merino wool, cashmere, mohair, angora, and alpaca, to name a few. Each type has its own unique qualities. Wool is a delightful material that can regulate temperature in all conditions. It has excellent absorbency without feeling wet, and in cold conditions, it provides warmth. However, its best quality is that it repels dirt and it is easy to remove any pills. Wool is often blended with other materials such as viscose, silk, or polyester, which also affects the price and the care of the garment.
Disadvantages – Wool is not very resistant to abrasion, it has a tendency to pill, and it can sometimes cause itching.
COTTON – the most common textile fiber
Cotton comes from the cotton plant, which grows as a shrub and consists mainly of cellulose. There are several different types of cotton, and prices vary according to quality. High-quality cotton is easy to care for and durable. Textiles made from cotton have vibrant and clear colors, provide excellent breathability, and feel comfortable. It usually withstands high temperatures well. Depending on how the cotton fabric is woven, it may be referred to by different names, such as terry cloth, denim, or corduroy. Often, other materials are added to cotton to improve drape or to get a more shiny appearance.
Disadvantages – Cotton wrinkles easily, and sometimes it can be challenging to remove stains. Cotton garments may shrink when washed. The manufacturing process requires significant amounts of water.
Cotton garments with a touch of elastane for added stretchiness.
LINEN – a material with a long history
Flax is a one-year-old cultivated plant whose fibers are used in the production of linen material. Linen is particularly popular in the summer because it is a breathable material that is easy to care for, absorbs moisture, and feels comfortable. Linen does not generate static electricity and is resistant to pilling. However, due to its stiffness, it has a tendency to wrinkle easily. Viscose, polyester, or cotton are often blended with linen to make it softer.
Disadvantages – The main disadvantage is its tendency to wrinkle. However, why not turn it into something positive? Linen can be charming despite its wrinkles.
SILK – appreciated and luxurious
Silk is produced from a fiber obtained from the silk moth’s cocoon. The process is time-consuming, which is why silk is expensive. Silk is a luxurious and shiny material that regulates heat, and breathes well. By blending silk with other fibers, desired characteristics can be achieved such as thinness, stretchiness, durability, and easier to care for.
Disadvantages – The material is sensitive to perspiration and requires hand washing or delicate machine washing.
REGENERATED FIBERS
The most well-known regenerated fibers are viscose, modal, lyocell, hemp, and bamboo.
Regenerated fibers are made from natural materials, often from wood or cellulose (such as eucalyptus, birch, pine, and beech). These fibers are comfortable and similar to the other natural fibers.
VISCOSE, also known as rayon, is the most known regenerated fiber. It is comfortable and has excellent breathability. The demand for viscose has increased due to limited availability of cotton. Viscose is often blended with cotton, wool, or synthetic materials. It wrinkles less than cotton and drapes nicely. Viscose is also relatively affordable. It is suitable for printing, as it maintains clear and vibrant colors.
Disadvantages – The fiber is sensitive when it is wet and it can not be washed at the same high temperatures as cotton. The production of viscose requires a significant amount of water and chemicals.
Airy viscose garments wrinkles less than cotton and drapes nicely.
MODAL is similar to viscose and cotton but is primarily blended with other materials. It is made from beechwood and is a comfortable material that absorbs moisture and does not generate static electricity. However, it has a tendency to pill. Modal is found in microfiber, technical fabrics, and home furnishings.
LYOCELL (also known as Tencel) is another material from cellulose. It shares similarities with viscose but stands out for its high quality, thickness, and resistance to wrinkling. It absorbs moisture and it is also antibacterial. The production process has a lower environmental impact compared to many others, partly because the chemicals used can be recycled. However, products containing lyocell may color bleed when both dry and damp.
The lower part of the batik dress is 100% lyocell.
Hemp and bamboo are also used in clothing, but they are usually blended with other materials. Neither of them requires pesticides. Hemp thrives in nutrient-poor soil, and its long roots help prevent erosion. Hemp is excellent at moisture absorption, but the material itself is rough. Bamboo, on the other hand, is soft but it has a tendency to pill.
ARTIFICIAL MATERIAL – SYNTHETIC FIBERS
Artificial materials are manufactured entirely through artificial processes. The most commonly used synthetic fibers are polyamide, polyester, elastane, and acrylic. New production methods have resulted in new fabrics with different properties. These fabrics are easy to care for and are appreciated for their wrinkle resistance. Sometimes features such as shine, stretch, or a wax-like finish that repels moisture are added. Synthetic fibers tend to be more rigid, and the disadvantage is that they are not biodegradable. Individuals with sensitive skin may prefer to use natural materials.
Make sure to wash your synthetic garments in a laundry bag to prevent the release of microplastics into the environment and extend the lifespan of your clothes.
However, it is important to let go of unnecessary prejudices about synthetic materials!
POLYAMIDE – the synthetic fiber that changed the world
Polyamide (also known as nylon) gained popularity in the 1940s when durable stockings began to be produced. It is a strong but stretchable synthetic fiber derived from petroleum. It is used in sportswear, outerwear, as well as stockings, underwear, and socks. Polyamide does not wrinkle and is resistant to friction.
Disadvantages – it does not regulate heat.
Stockings made of polyamide.
POLYESTER – affordable and versatile
Polyester is a strong, durable, and versatile fiber made from PET plastic. It has low production costs and can be recycled. Polyester is ideal when you travel as it resists wrinkles and dries quickly. By adjusting the fibers, the fabric’s properties can be modified. Chiffon, satin, faux leather, fleece, and soft shell are all made from polyester.
Disadvantages – it can generate static electricity in cold weather, and some feel that polyester garments have limited breathability.
Our own polyester garments also contain a significant amount of viscose! This blend feels soft and comfortable on the skin.
Our Cecilia pants are made of cotton and elastane, but the lightweight chiffon fabric at the front is 100% polyester.
ELASTANE – stretch
Elastane is a polyurethane fiber commonly known as Lycra. It is added to other materials to enhance their stretchability, for example in stretch pants. The more elastane in a garment (sometimes up to 15%), the greater the level of stretch it offers. Elastane is resistant to sweat.
Disadvantages – fabric softeners and heat can break down elastane. Rinse your swimwear thoroughly as chlorine and seawater can also weaken the fiber. Elastane is challenging to recycle or reuse.
ACRYLIC – durable and affordable
Acrylic is a synthetic fiber derived from petroleum and ammonia. It resembles wool but is much more affordable. Acrylic is resistant to chemicals and mold, making it suitable for outdoor textiles.
Disadvantages – removing pills from acrylic garments can be challenging. Materials containing acrylic are flammable and do not breathe well.
/ Marie